Seattle Kitchen Remodel Cost Guide – Real Prices, No Fluff

You want straight answers on Seattle kitchen costs, not fuzzy averages. Fair. Here’s a contractor style breakdown that talks real numbers, what actually drives them up or down, and how to keep the project on budget without wrecking the design. The tone here is normal human – a bit rough around the edges – because that’s how we talk on jobs. There will be a few typos and run-on thoughts. That’s life.

Seattle kitchen after a full gut and rebuild – modern lines, efficient layout.

Seattle kitchens vary a lot: craftsman bungalows with tricky walls, mid-century homes with low soffits, new townhomes with compact footprints. Pricing swings with those details. The point is to plan honestly and avoid surprises. If you just want a quick number and to move on, here’s the short version:

Light pull-and-replace (keep layout, stock cabinets, standard finishes): typically $28k–$55k.
Mid-range update (semi-custom cabinets, quartz tops, tile splash, electrical upgrades, a couple layout tweaks): $55k–$95k.
Major gut & reconfigure (move plumbing and walls, high-end cabinets and tops, pro appliances, new lighting plan): $95k–$180k+.

If that shocks you, you’re not alone. But once you see where each dollar goes, it starts making sense. Seattle labor is expensive, and older houses fight you a little.

What drives cost in Seattle

Labor market – Skilled trades in Seattle are busy. Licensed electricians and plumbers are not cheap, and we dont want them to be cheap either because mistakes cost more later. Figure labor is often 45–60% of the whole budget.
Permits and inspections – Many kitchen projects need permits. SDCI has different tracks; small like-for-like electrical or plumbing might be simple; layout changes or structural work need more. Permit fees aren’t wild individually, but the process adds time. Time = money.
Sales tax – Seattle’s combined sales tax is around 10.25%. It hits most remodel invoices, so don’t forget to include it when you’re penciling numbers.
Age of the house – Knob-and-tube, galvanized pipes, odd framing, sloped floors, mystery soffits hiding ductwork – these show up in Seattle a lot. Fixing old problems is the unglamorous part of the budget.
Layout moves – Keeping sink, range, and fridge near where they are saves a chunk. Moving the range to the opposite wall? Now we’re adding circuits, possibly venting through roof or sidewall, patching, more tile, etc.
Finish level – Stock shaker plus quartz vs. custom rift oak with porcelain slab splash – you get it. Looks great either way, but numbers change a lot.

Suggested ranges by scope

These are not promises, just honest ranges we actually see.

1) Light pull-and-replace – $28k–$55k

Keep the same footprint.
Stock or value semi-custom cabinets.
Quartz or good laminate tops.
LVP or tile floor.
Basic tile backsplash.
Minor electrical updates and new lighting trims.
Existing appliances reused or replaced with mid-grade units.

This is the quickest path if the bones are fine and you just need fresh finishes.

2) Mid-range update – $55k–$95k

Semi-custom cabinetry with better boxes and hardware, more drawers than doors.
Quartz or porcelain tops, full tile splash.
Dedicated circuits for appliances, new lighting plan, new outlets, undercabinet lighting.
Some layout tweaks like shifting the fridge or widening an opening.
New mid-grade appliance package.

This is where most Seattle homeowners land – looks great, functions better, still sane.

3) Major gut & reconfigure – $95k–$180k+

Remove soffits, move walls or add beams, relocate plumbing and gas.
Custom or high-end semi-custom cabinets, integrated panels, inserts galore.
Large-format porcelain or natural stone, slab splash features.
High-end appliance set (pro range, built-in fridge, panel dishwasher, maybe a steam oven because why not).
New window or door, serious lighting design, floor leveling.

Big jump in cost because structure and systems work stack up. Gorgeous outcome though.

Line-item breakdown – where the money actually goes

Numbers reflect typical small-to-average Seattle kitchens. Bigger rooms or ultra-premium picks trend higher. You can shave or add depending on scope.

Design & planning – $1,500–$8,000
- Measured drawings, layout options, cabinet plan, appliance spec, lighting schedule, permit drawings if needed. A couple revision cycles. Money well spent. Doing layout right once saves a lot of change orders later.
Permits, engineering – $600–$3,500
- Over-the-counter trades permits are one thing; structural calcs or significant floor-plan changes are another. Add a bit if you need an engineer for a dropped beam or to open a wall.
Demo & protection – $1,200–$5,000
- Site protection, temp walls or zip walls, careful removal, legal disposal. Asbestos/lead testing on older homes when necessary. You dont want dust all over the house – we spend time on clean containment.
Framing & drywall – $1,000–$6,000
- Fix studs, straighten walls, remove soffits, fur out for plumb cabinets, patch drywall. Seattle’s older walls are rarely square – making them square is half the battle.
Electrical – $2,500–$10,500
- Dedicated circuits for microwave, dishwasher, disposal; GFCI where required; undercabinet lighting; cans or surface fixtures; maybe a subpanel upgrade in some houses. Copper isn’t cheap. But flicker-free lights and enough outlets – it matters everyday.
Plumbing & gas – $1,800–$9,500
- Sink moves, new shutoffs, dishwasher drain air gap, icemaker line, gas stub for a range, venting corrections. If we find corroded galvanized, we fix it while walls are open. Future you will be thankful.
HVAC & venting – $400–$2,500
- Range hood duct to exterior, adjust heat run or add a toe-kick register so the floor isn’t freezing. Venting to outside is not optional here – grease and moisture need to get out.
Cabinetry
- Stock: $3,500–$10,000 installed.
- Semi-custom: $8,500–$22,000 installed.
- Custom: $22,000–$45,000+ installed.
- Boxes, fronts, soft-close hardware, fillers, crown, panels, trims. Seattle humidity likes plywood boxes. Particleboard can work, but we spec better boxes where budget allows.
Countertops
- Laminate: $1,500–$3,500.
- Butcher block: $1,800–$4,500 finished and sealed.
- Quartz: $3,200–$8,500 depending on brand, thickness, edges.
- Granite/Natural stone: $3,500–$9,500+.
- Porcelain slab: $4,500–$11,000+.
- Splash can be tile or slab – slab looks slick but bumps cost.

Seattle countertop fabrication and install in progress.

Tight seams, clean edges – the little details add up visually.

Flooring – $1,800–$6,500
- LVP with decent underlayment is the budget hero and handles spills. Tile is classic and durable but adds labor for prep and setting. Site-finished hardwood looks great in older homes but needs careful protection during the rest of the work.
Tile & backsplash – $900–$4,500
- Subway is affordable. Handmade tile or herringbone patterns add labor. Niches, ledges, and special trims add time too. Small kitchen? You can splurge on a nicer tile because quantity is low.
Appliances
- Mid-range set (range, DW, fridge, hood): $3,500–$9,500.
- Pro-style set: $12,000–$30,000+.
- Panel-ready items add for panels plus install time. And yes, a 36 in range changes the cabinet plan.
Fixtures & hardware – $500–$2,000
- Faucet, soap dispenser, air switch, pulls/knobs. Matte black and brushed brass run pricier, no surprise.
Painting, trims, punch – $600–$2,200
- Prime, paint, caulk, base and casing. Then the tiny stuff: door stops, felt pads, cabinet adjustments. Punch lists always exist – they’re normal.
Contingency – 10–15%
- Old houses hide things. A decent buffer keeps the project calm when we open a wall and find a surprise.

Seattle-specific notes you actually need

Permitting rhythm – Minor like-for-like updates can be quick. Structural changes, new openings, or big layout moves need more paperwork. Inspections need to be scheduled; that can add days even if work is ready.
Sales tax – Plan for the 10.25% on the invoice. It’s not a rounding error at these budgets – it is thousands.
Moisture and ventilation – Range hoods should vent outside, not into the attic. We see attic staining and greasy sheathing from old hacks. Fixing that later is twice the cost.
Salvage and reuse – Seattle homeowners love reuse. If you want to keep a special piece (like a vintage hutch or a fir door), tell us early so we can design around it instead of scrambling late.
Lead and asbestos – Pre-1980 homes need testing when we disturb certain materials. It adds a few days and some cost, but the safety piece matters.

Timeline – what to expect

Every job is a little different, but here’s the usual cadence when the scope isn’t wild:

Design & selections – 2–4 weeks. Faster if decisions are quick.
Permitting – 1–4 weeks depending on scope.
Ordering lead times – cabinets can be 3–8 weeks depending on line; appliances vary; counters are measured after cabinets are in.
Active construction – 4–8 weeks for typical mid-range scope. Major structural adds time. Countertops add a pause between template and install. Then backsplash, plumbing trim, electrical trim, paint, punch.

If you only have one kitchen (everyone does), plan a temp cooking setup – hot plate, toaster oven, outdoor grill. We try to keep the fridge live and path clean. But it’s a construction zone for a bit, can’t sugar coat it.

Ways to save without wrecking the result

Keep the layout – It’s not exciting advice, but it’s the biggest saver. Moving the sink and range means new rough-ins and more patching.
Cabinet strategy – Use semi-custom boxes with smart inserts instead of full custom when budget is tight. Refacing is sometimes fine if boxes are solid and layout is good.
Quartz over stone – Looks great, low maintenance, wide range. Porcelain slab is beautiful but jumps the budget quick.
Appliance realism – Unless you cook daily on a 20k range, a solid mid-range set works great. Spend that money on lighting and drawers.
Backsplash limits – Full-height slab is stunning but expensive. Tile to the uppers with a simple trim looks clean and costs less.
Flooring picks – LVP isn’t fake-looking anymore. Good lines look sharp and survive kids, pets, tenants.
Do small DIY – Paint a wall, install hardware, assemble stools. But leave electrical, gas, and plumbing to licensed pros. Failed inspections cost more than any DIY save.
Bundle and schedule – Ordering everything before demo avoids dead days. Gaps kill budget morale.

Common surprises and how we handle them

Out-of-level floors – Old joists sag. We might need self-leveler or sistering before tile or hardwood. Adds some labor and material.
Hidden vents or stacks in walls – That soffit you hate might be hiding a duct or a plumbing stack. We reroute if possible or redesign if not worth it. Early discovery stops chaos.
Undersized circuits – Kitchens need multiple small appliance circuits. Old panels cry uncle. Sometimes a service upgrade is the right call.
Window swaps – A bigger window is great for light but triggers exterior work and sometimes energy code details. Worth it, just budget for it.
Countertop lead times – Counters can’t be measured until cabinets are set. Plan that one-to-two week gap. People forget and think we’re stalling – we’re not.

Materials talk – quick notes you’ll care about later

Cabinet boxes – Plywood sides handle moisture changes better. Soft-close hinges and full-extension drawers are worth every penny in daily use.
Drawer count – More drawers, fewer doors. You’ll thank us forever for not having to crawl in a base cabinet to find a pan lid.
Lighting – Good lighting is a game changer: cans or surface fixtures for general light, undercabinet task lights, a simple pendant or two where it makes sense. Don’t go dim – kitchens need lumens.
Plumbing fixtures – Pull-down faucet with a decent cartridge. Skip gimmicks that are annoying after 3 months. Air switch for the disposal is clean.
Backsplash grout – If you cook a lot, darker grout hides life. White looks great but, ya, it shows spaghetti night.

In-progress Seattle kitchen – appliance and cabinet protection during punch.

Sample budgets – how they stack

40k–55k pull-and-replace

Semi-custom cabinets in a standard L or galley, no island move.
Basic quartz, 2 cm eased edge, tile splash to uppers.
LVP floor, painting, trim.
Electrical tidy-up, new trims, a couple cans.
Reuse fridge, new range and DW at mid-grade.

70k–95k mid-range upgrade

Semi-custom with more drawers, tall pantry pullouts, trash pullouts.
3 cm quartz, waterfall on island if small, full splash tile.
Tile floor or nice LVP, new lighting plan with undercab lights.
Move fridge or widen opening to dining, minor framing.
Full appliance package, hood ducted to exterior.

120k–160k major rework

Remove wall with structural beam, island with seating, new window.
Custom or high-end semi-custom boxes and panels.
Porcelain slab tops and splash, or premium stone.
Dedicated circuits throughout, panel work, layered lighting.
Pro appliances, panel dishwasher, built-in fridge.

These stacks include typical labor, materials, finishes, and the boring must-do items like protection and clean-up. They do not include wild add-ons like steel stair rebuilds or new hardwood across the whole main floor.

Should you phase the work?

Sometimes. If the budget is tight and the layout is fine, we can do the classic floor-cabs-tops-splash-lighting path now and leave luxury appliances or a built-in pantry for later. Just plan those future items in the drawings so we leave power and spacing. Phasing saves cash today but can cost more in total. It’s a trade.

How we keep projects sane (our playbook)

Plan the layout and cabinet list before pricing finishes. Cabinets drive the bus.
Lock appliances early; they control rough-ins.
Order long-lead items first.
Protect the house like it’s ours – plastic, mats, negative air if needed.
Communicate in plain language and write everything down.
Don’t rush inspections. Passing the first time keeps the schedule.

If you want a local crew that speaks this language daily, check RENOVA Contractors kitchen remodeling in Seattle – the page is here: renova.contractors/kitchen-remodel-seattle. We design, fabricate, and build. We also actually pick up the phone.

Quick FAQ style wrap-up

Is 40k enough?

Yes for a modest pull-and-replace in a smaller kitchen with stock or semi-custom boxes and simple tops. Not if you’re moving walls or chasing high-end appliances.

How long will I be without a kitchen?

Typical mid-range jobs run 6–8 weeks of active work after permits and orders are set. Fastest is still a month plus. Counters add a measured pause.

What about ROI?

Nice kitchens help resale in Seattle. Buyers notice. ROI depends on neighborhood and how smart you spend, but kitchens are rarely a bad move if the house needed it.

Can I reuse my existing cabinets and just change doors?

Sometimes. If boxes are plumb and layout is good, refacing is fine. But bad boxes and weird spacing are not worth dressing up.

What do people regret?

Low lighting, too few drawers, cheap hinges, and skipping real ventilation. Also: forgetting trash/recycle pullouts.

What takes the longest?

Cabinets and counters. And waiting on decisions. Decision paralysis is a real schedule killer.

Final word

A Seattle kitchen remodel isn’t cheap. But done right, it’s the most satisfying upgrade you can make to a house. Cook better, host easier, feel good every day walking in there. If you want help scoping the right level for your home and budget, RENOVA Contractors LLC can lay it out clean, price it straight, and build it the way we said we would. No weird surprises – just the normal small ones that old houses always hand us, managed like adults.