How Much Does It Cost to Hire an Architect in Seattle — and How to Hire the Right One (Without Burning Time or Cash)
You’re planning a residential project. Maybe a basement remodel, maybe you’re opening a kitchen wall, or you’ve got dreams of a sleepable attic that isn’t a sauna in July. Somewhere in your research the word architect shows up — and now you’re wondering: Do I actually need one? How much should it cost? What’s the smartest way to hire so I don’t pay twice? Let’s unpack it — with real numbers, Seattle-specific rules, and a simple hiring playbook.
Quick context: in Washington State, many small residential projects don’t legally require a licensed architect to prepare the drawings. State exemptions cover certain residential work (up to four dwelling units). In other words, a good residential drafter / designer can legally produce permit drawings for lots of home projects. Still — some scopes will need professional stamps, and you should follow the Seattle process regardless.
What does an architect actually cost in Seattle?
There are three common pricing models you’ll see locally:
- Percentage of construction (often 7–15% for full services).
- Hourly (from drafting techs in the $75–$125/hr band to licensed architects at $150–$250/hr+).
- Per-square-foot for permit drawings (varies widely, $2–$8+/sf depending on scope, survey/engineering needs, and level of service).
Our stance (because transparency helps): we charge about ~$3 per square foot for a full residential permit set on typical interior remodels. That’s measured, code-compliant drawings — coordinated with trades — aimed at getting you permit-ready without fluff. If your scope needs heavy structural, that number changes (more on engineers below).
Why the range? Two variables blow up design time: unknown existing conditions and structural changes. If you don’t have decent as-builts, someone has to field-measure and draft the entire house to keep the permit set consistent. That time is real — and worth it — because it prevents plan review corrections later.
Do I need a licensed architect — or will a drafter do?
Washington’s rules give homeowners wiggle room on small-scale residential. That’s the legal side. Practically, use this rule of thumb:
-
No major structure. No exterior changes. No egress cut.
A skilled residential drafter/designer can usually prepare code-compliant drawings that Seattle accepts for permit review. You still submit plans and pass inspections, but you don’t necessarily need the architect stamp. -
Altering structure or the building shell?
Bring an architect (or at least an architect-led team), and expect to add a licensed engineer where structural calculations are required. When structural design is in play, you want the right stamp on the right sheets. -
Tricky projects, ADU conversions, additions, new openings in foundation, or slab-lowering.
Architect + engineer + permit coordinator is the responsible stack. Seattle does not love guesswork.
Bottom line: we use and need an architect mostly when alterations are required — structure, egress, envelope changes — and when a coordinated submittal will save you rounds of corrections.
The Seattle permit landscape (in 90 seconds)
Seattle has two main residential building-permit paths:
-
STFI — Subject-to-Field-Inspection
Designed for simple, interior, non-structural residential work that meets Seattle’s criteria. Lighter submittal. Still inspected. If your scope fits, it’s the fastest lane. (Know the submittal checklist and what qualifies.) -
Full Plan Review — Construction Permit (Addition or Alteration)
Required when you alter structure, cut new openings in foundation or exterior walls, create new habitable area that triggers egress, or do complex MEP work. Expect plan sets, review cycles, and multiple inspections.
Seattle also publishes a plain-language “Do You Need a Permit?” guide — a handy page that spells out when a permit isn’t needed (minor work), and when it is. If your project touches structure, egress, or the building envelope… it’s a permit. Period.
Code triggers that change your design (and budget)
A few Seattle Residential Code items drive whether you can keep it simple — or must upgrade:
- Ceiling height. Habitable space (and hallways) needs 7 ft minimum. Bathrooms/laundry: 6 ft 8 in. Low beams and ducts? You’ll be designing soffits and clear paths. (SRC R305).
- Bedrooms need egress. If you add a bedroom — especially in a basement or attic — you’ll need an Emergency Escape and Rescue Opening with specific clear opening sizes, sill height, and window-well rules. (SRC R310; SDCI Tip 303A).
- New exterior door or stair for a “daylight basement.” Follow Means of Egress rules (door operability, stair width/treads/risers, headroom). (SBC Chapter 10).
An experienced architect should proactively flag these — and help minimize total cost by designing to the right threshold (e.g., keeping a project STFI-eligible when it’s smart to do so). If nobody on your team is thinking about “permit strategy,” you pay for it in time.
Real-world examples — when you likely need an architect (and engineer)
Likely architect + engineer
- Basement remodels adding bedrooms, bathrooms, or cutting an egress window in the foundation. (Egress + structure + waterproofing details.)
- Kitchen openings where you remove or expand a wall that turns out to be load-bearing. (Beam sizing, lateral, connections.)
- Layout changes that move or alter bearing lines, add big window/door openings, or lower the slab for headroom (basements). (Yes, people do this — carefully.)
Usually fine with a drafter/designer (STFI-type scope)
- Non-structural layout tweaks: shifting a non-bearing stud wall to improve a bathroom plan.
- Finish-level upgrades: cabinets, tile, fixtures, lighting re-use on existing circuits. (Confirm electrical/plumbing thresholds — small changes can still require trade permits.)
The one thing that nukes schedules: As-builts
“Do you have existing drawings?” If the answer is ummm, no, expect your designer/architect to measure and draft the whole house — not just the room. That sounds excessive until you hit plan review and the reviewer asks how your new loads transfer, or why the stair geometry doesn’t match reality. Accurate as-builts keep you from playing correction ping-pong. Seattle’s reviewers do read the drawings. (It’s literally their job.)
Hiring smart: a playbook you can copy
1) Decide what you’re actually buying.
- Permit set only vs permit set + design support + permit management. If you buy “just drawings,” you own coordination — and risk resubmittals if the set misses code triggers.
2) Ask about permit strategy on day one.
- “Could this be STFI?” “What draws us into full plan review?” A good team answers with the city’s criteria for STFI and the Addition/Alteration rules. If they look puzzled… not a good sign.
3) Require a scope that includes:
- Field measure + as-builts (if you don’t have them)
- Code analysis (ceiling heights, egress, smoke/CO, ventilation)
- Structural coordination with a licensed engineer when required (beam calcs, headers, lateral)
- Permit application and submittals (forms, responses, corrections)
- Two rounds of corrections included (typical for full review)
4) Payment terms that protect you.
- Pay a retainer to start; only pay the final after the permit is issued. Why? Because drawings that don’t clear plan review are just… very expensive paper.
5) Portfolio + references — recent and local.
- Same house vintage. Same neighborhood code quirks. Seattle is Seattle; context matters.
Why we bundle design + permits (and what we charge)
We’ve seen homeowners hire “just a drafter,” get a gorgeous 2D plan, then discover they can’t pull the permit — wrong details, missing egress, no structural path, or not aligned to STFI rules. Now you’re paying twice. Worse, you’ve lost weeks.
Our approach:
- Measured as-builts and code-checked drawings
- Ergonomic layout + interior finish help (included for free) — the small moves that make kitchens, basements, and attics actually pleasant
- Permit management — we file, we respond, we coordinate inspections, we push for STFI when eligible
- Engineer on call for major structural interference — beams, headers, shear, hold-downs (stamped where required)
- Pricing: about $3/sf for a typical full permit set (interior remodel scopes). Structural design and surveys are add-ons when the project needs them.
Also — and this is not a subtle dig — most companies overcharge for this work in Seattle. We’ve seen quotes 3× our fee for the same scope, and in a few cases the homeowner still couldn’t get a permit issued. No thanks.
Architect vs. engineer vs. drafter — who does what?
- Architect — codes, life safety, spatial design, coordination, and drawings suitable for permit review. On altered structures, an architect should pull in an engineer early.
- Engineer — structural analysis and stamped calculations where required. Structural engineering is a specialized practice — when structure is in play, use the right license.
- Drafter/Designer — prepares drawings (often great at measured as-builts and permit sets for non-structural scopes) under the residential exemptions.
For Seattle homeowners, the best value is usually a hybrid team: designer/drafter for as-builts and documentation, architect to set strategy and coordinate, and engineer only when structure demands it.
Seattle specifics that affect cost (and sanity)
- Permit type matters. STFI moves faster with lighter submittals; full plan review takes longer and adds corrections.
- Inspections are real. Even for STFI, you’ll see framing, insulation/air-barrier, rough-in MEP, and final. Build your schedule around them.
- Scope creep kills budgets. If you add a bedroom in the basement — surprise — you just triggered egress (window sizing, well, sill height). That’s design, structural, and cost.
Red flags when hiring (learned the hard way)
- “I only do drawings. You submit.” → Nope. If they won’t handle submittals and corrections, you’re taking the risk.
- No as-builts in the proposal → expect surprises and resubmittals.
- No mention of STFI or permit type → they don’t work in Seattle much.
- No engineer relationship → fine for non-structural; risky the minute beams enter the chat.
When drawings might not be needed (or can be simpler)
Some non-structural scopes — say, moving a short non-bearing partition to improve a bathroom layout, or replacing finishes like-for-like — can be documented with simple plans or even fall under minor-work thresholds, depending on cost and context. When in doubt, we’ll tell you if drawings are even needed — because paying for paperwork you don’t need is… not our vibe.
Can an architect legalize space that was finished without a permit?
Sometimes — if the space can be brought up to current code (egress, ceiling heights, smoke/CO, ventilation, energy). We review the as-built conditions, design the upgrades, and file the permit to legalize the area. Not every space can be saved. A straight answer early saves you months.
How to hire (step-by-step)
- Define scope in plain English. “Finish basement with one bedroom + bath; keep stairs; add egress window.”
- Ask for a fixed fee for: as-builts, code analysis, permit drawings, permit submittal, and two correction cycles.
- Confirm who applies — and who answers corrections. (Spoiler: it should be your designer/architect.)
- Get structural priced as an option unless you know walls are bearing.
- Set payment terms — retainer now, progress after submittal, final after permit issuance.
- Request a schedule tied to submission dates and review timelines.
Ready to plan — and price — your project?
We’re here for the practical stuff: as-builts, code-clean drawings, permit strategy, and budget-savvy design that doesn’t blow up construction costs. If you’re exploring a basement conversion, start here: RENOVA Contractors – Basement Finishing Seattle. Kicking around broader remodel ideas? Our main page has service overviews and contact: RENOVA Contractors. Thinking attic instead of basement? Here’s the page: Attic Finishing – Seattle.
We’ll tell you when an architect is essential, when a drafter is perfectly fine, and when an engineer must stamp the math — then we’ll coordinate all three so your permit actually gets issued. Novel concept, we know.
Seattle references (no outbound links)
- STFI (Subject-to-Field-Inspection) criteria — SDCI Tip 316.
- Do You Need a Permit? — SDCI guidance.
- Construction Permit — Addition or Alteration (Full Plan Review).
- Seattle Residential Code — Chapter 3 (R305) ceiling heights.
- SDCI Tip 303A — basement/bedroom egress (SRC R310).
- Washington exemptions for small residential projects — RCW 18.08.410.
- Professional engineers and structural engineering — RCW 18.43.
Not legal advice; always confirm your specific scope with SDCI and current code editions before you demo a single wall.